I first visited Nataraja Temple at Chidambaram in 1970 when I was
at Annmalai University Engineering College. I left the College within few days
due to various reasons and then completed my Bachelor of Engineering Course
from MIT, University of Mysore. Subsequently as a professional working for
Praga Tools Ltd., a Government of India Company under Ministry of Defence; I
visited Pondicherry officially a number of times. And as Chidambaram is just 75
km away from Pondicherry, I always made it a point to visit the Temple. Very
recently I have visited Nataraja Temple with my wife. This is a very important
place of pilgrimage for us and we have returned home very happy after the
pilgrimage. Having written about many other Temples spread over the country, I
should have written about Chidambaram Nataraja Temple much before…better late
than never and hence this article.
Chidambaram Nataraja Temple is also known as Thillai Nataraja
Temple. It is 75 km from Pondicherry and 235 km from Chennai. The temple
complex spread over 50 acres is in the heart of Chidambaram city. It is an
ancient and historic temple dedicated to Lord Shiva and Lord Govindaraja
Perumal, one of the few temples where both the Shaivite and Vaishnavite deities
are enshrined in one place. To the followers of Shaivism (Saivism) or the
saivaite, the very word koil refers to Chidambaram. In the same way, to the
followers of Vaishnavism it refers to Srirangam or Thiruvarangam. The Sangam classics refer to Viduvelvidugu
Perumtaccan, respected clan of traditional Vishwakarmas, as being the chief
architects of the temple renovation. There have been several renovations in its
history, particularly during the days of Pallava / Chola emperors in ancient
and pre-medieval periods.
The temple has 9 gateways and four of these have towering pagodas
or gopurams each with 7 levels in the East, South, West and North. The eastern
pagoda has all the 108 postures (karnams) of the Indian classical dance form –
Bharathanatyam sculpted on it.
There are 5 sabhas or diases or halls:
The Chit sabha is the sanctum sanctorum housing Lord Nataraja and
his consort Goddess Shivagamasundari.
The Kanaka sabha is in front of the Chit sabha, from which the
daily rituals are conducted.
The Nrithya sabha or Natya sabha is to the south of the temple's
flag mast (dwaja sthambam) where the Lord is said to have danced with Goddess
Kali – an embodiment of energy and established His supremacy.
The Raja sabha is a 1000-pillared hall which symbolizes the yogic
chakra of thousand pillared lotus or Sahasraram which in yoga is a 'chakra' at
the crown of the head and is a seat where the soul unites with God. This chakra
is represented as a 1000-petalled lotus. Meditating by concentrating at the
Sahasrara Chakra is said to lead to a state of union with the Divine force and
is the pinnacle of yogic practice.
The Deva sabha houses the Pancha moorthis (pancha - five, moorthis –
deities) namely the deities of Lord Ganesh - the remover of hurdles, Lord Somaskanda,
a form where the Lord is in a seated posture with his consort, the Lord's
consort Sivananda nayaki, the Lord Muruga and the deity of Chandikeswarar - the
principal and chief of the devotees of the Lord.
The 9 gateways signify the 9 orifices in the human body. The Chit
sabha or Ponnambalam, the sanctum sanctorum represents the heart which is
reached by a flight of 5 stairs called the Panchaatchara padi - pancha meaning
5, achhara – indestructible syllables – "SI VA YA NA MA", from a
raised anterior dias - the Kanaka sabha. The access to the sabha is through the
sides of the stage (and not from the front as in most temples).
The Ponnambalam or the Sanctum sanctorum is held by 28 pillars –
representing the 28 agamas or set methodologies for the worship of Lord Shiva.
The roof is held by a set of 64 beams representing the 64 forms of art and is
held by several cross-beams representing the innumerable blood vessels. The
roof has been laid by 21600 golden tiles with the word SIVAYANAMA inscribed on
them representing 21600 breaths (that one takes in a day). The golden tiles are
fixed using 72000 golden nails which represent the number of nadis (nerves) that
exist in human body. The roof is topped by a set of 9 sacred pots or kalasas,
representing the 9 forms of energy.
Apart from the five sabhas are, the shrines for the original
Shivalingam worshipped by Saints Patanjali and Vyagrapathar – called the
Thirumoolattaneswarar and his consort Umaiyammai Umaiya parvathi, the shrines
for the 63 prime devotees of Lord Siva – or the Arubathu moovar, the shrines
for Sivagami – an embodiment of knowledge or Gyanasakthi, for Lord Ganesha – in
his manifestation of one who removes hurdles, for Lord Muruga or Pandiya
nayakan – in his manifestation of one who holds the three forms of energy –
Itchai or "desire" represented by his consort Valli, Kriya or
"action" represented by his consort Deivayanai and Gnana or
"Knowledge" represented by the spear He carries to destroy ignorance.
There are also several smaller shrines in the temple complex and
there are water bodies in and around the temple. The largest water body is
Sivaganga. This large tank is in the third corridor of the Temple opposite to
the shrine of Goddess Sivagami.
The Chidambaram temple complex houses a shrine for the Lord
Govindaraja Perumal and his consort Pundareegavalli Thaayar. This shrine is
claimed to be the Thillai Thiruchitrakootam and is one of the 108 divyadesas –
or the key shrines of Vishnu, which have been sanctified (mangala saasanam) by
hymns (the Naalayira divya prabantham) sung by the chief devotees of Lord
Vishnu (called the Aalwars).
Chidambaram Natraja Temple is one of the five holiest Shiva
temples, each representing one of the five natural elements; Chidambaram
represents akasha (aether). The other four temples in this category are:
Thiruvanaikaval Jambukeswara, Trichy (water), Kanchi Ekambareswara (earth)
Kanchipuram, Thiruvannamalai Arunachaleswara (fire), Thiruvanna malai and
Kalahasti Nathar (wind), Kalahasti.
The word Chidambaram is derived from chit, meaning
"consciousness", and ambaram, meaning "sky" (from aakasam);
it refers to the chidaakasam, the sky of consciousness, which is the ultimate
aim one should attain according to all the Vedas and scriptures. Another theory
is that it is derived from chit plus ambalam. Ambalam means a "stage"
for performing arts. The chidakasam is the state of supreme bliss or aananda
and Lord Nataraja is the symbolic representation of the supreme bliss or
aananda natanam. Saivaites believe that a visit to Chidambaram leads to
liberation. Yet another theory is that it is derived from the word
chitrambalam, from chithu meaning "play or dances of God" and ambalam
meaning "stage".
A unique feature of this temple is the bejeweled image of Nataraja.
It depicts Lord Shiva as the Lord of the dance Bharatanatyam and is one of the
few temples where Shiva is represented by an anthropomorphic murthi rather than
the classic, anionic Lingam. The Cosmic Dance of Lord Nataraja symbolises the
motion of the universe as sustained by Lord Shiva.
Aragalur Udaya Iraratevan Ponparappinan (alias Vanakovaraiyan)
rebuilt the Siva temple at Chidambaram around 1213 AD. The same Bana Chief also
built Tiruvannamalai temple. The temple has been traditionally administered by
an endogamous group of shiavite brahmins called Dikshitars, who also officiate
as its priests.
The story of Chidambaram begins with the legend of Lord Shiva
strolling into the Thillai Vanam (Vanam meaning forest and thillai trees -
botanical name Exocoeria agallocha, a species of mangrove trees - which
currently grow in the Pichavaram wetlands near Chidambaram). The temple
sculptures depicting the Thillai trees date back to the 2nd century CE).
In the Thillai forests resided a group of saints or 'rishis' who
believed in the supremacy of magic and that God can be controlled by rituals
and 'mantras' or magical words. The Lord strolls in the forest with resplendent
beauty and brilliance, assuming the form of 'Pitchatanadar', a simple mendicant
seeking alms. He is followed by his Grace and consort who is Lord Vishnu as
Mohini. The rishis and their wives are enchanted by the brilliance and the
beauty of the handsome mendicant and his consort. On seeing their womenfolk
enchanted, the rishis get enraged and invoke scores of 'serpents' (Sanskrit:
Nāga) by performing magical rituals. The Lord as the mendicant lifts the
serpents and dons them as ornaments on his matted locks, neck and waist.
Further enraged, the rishis invoke a fierce tiger, which the Lord skins and
dons as a shawl around his waist. Thoroughly frustrated, the rishis gather all
their spiritual strength and invoke a powerful demon Muyalakan - a symbol of
complete arrogance and ignorance. The Lord wearing a gentle smile, steps on the
demon's back, immobilizes him and performs the Ánanda Thaandava (the dance of
eternal bliss) and discloses his true form. The rishis surrender, realizing
that this Lord is the truth and he is beyond magic and rituals.
About Ananda Thaandava: Adhisesha, the serpent who serves as a bed
for the Lord in his manifestation as Vishnu, hears about the Änanda thaandava
and yearns to see and enjoy it. The Lord blesses him, beckons him to assume the
saintly form of 'Patanjali' and sends him to the Thillai forest, informing him
that he will display the dance in due course. Patanjali who meditated in the
Himalayas during krita age joins another saint, Vyagrapathar / Pulikaalmuni
(Vyagra / Puli meaning "Tiger" and patha / kaal meaning
"feet" – referring to the story of how he sought and got the feet and
eyesight of a tiger to help climb trees well before dawn to pick flowers for
the Lord before the bees visit them). The story of sage Patanjali as well as
his great student sage Upamanyu is narrated in both Vishnu Puranam as well as
Siva Puranam. They move into the Thillai forest and worship Lord Shiva in the
form of Shivalinga, a deity worshipped today as Thirumoolataneswarar (Thiru -
sri, Moolatanam - primordial or in the nature of a foundation, Eswarar- the
Lord). Legends say that Lord Shiva displayed his dance of bliss (the Aananda
Thaandavam) - as Nataraja to these two saints on the day of the poosam star in
the Tamil month of Thai (Jan – Feb).
The Ananda Tandava posture of Lord Shiva is one of the famous
postures recognized around the world by many. This celestial dancing posture
tells us how a Bharathanatyam Dancer should dance.
The demon under Nataraja's feet signifies that ignorance is under
his feet
The Fire in his hand (power of destruction) means destroyer of evil
The raised hand signifies that he is the savior of all life.
The Ring at the back signifies the cosmos.
The drum in his hand signifies the origin of Life.
These are the main things that the Nataraja murti and the celestial
dance posture depict. A rare type of thandava posture is seen in Melakadambur
temple nearby, 32 km from Chidambaram. Here in Karakoil, Nataraja is dancing on
a bull.
Chidambaram is also referred to in various works such as Thillai
(after the Thillai forest of yore in which the temple is now located), Perumpatrapuliyur
or Vyagrapuram (in honour of Saint Vyagrapathar).The temple is supposed to be
located at the Lotus heart of the Universe": Virat hridaya padma sthalam.
On the spot where the Lord displayed his dance of bliss, the Änanda Thaandavam
- a spot exactly south of the "Thirumoolataaneswar temple", today is
the Ponnambalam/ Porsabai (Pon meaning gold, Ambalam/Sabai meaning stage)
housing the Lord Shiva in his dancing form. The Lord is also hence referred to
as the Sabhanayakar, meaning the Lord of the Stage.
This gold-roofed stage is the sanctum sanctorum of the Chidambaram
temple and houses the Lord in three forms:
The "form" - the anthromorphological form as an
appearance of Lord Nataraja, called the Sakala thirumeni.
The "semi-form" – the semi-anthropomorphological form as
the Crystal linga of Chandramouleswarar, the Sakala nishkala thirumeni.
The "formless" – as the Space in Chidambara Rahasyam, an
empty space within the sanctum sanctorum, the Nishkala thirumeni.
Chidambaram also is one of the five places where Lord Shiva is said
to have displayed his dance and all these places have stages / sabhas. Apart
from Chidambaram which has the Por sabha, the others are the Rathina sabha at
Thiruvaalangadu (rathnam – ruby / red), the Chitra sabha at Courtallam (chitra
– painting), the Rajatha sabha or the Velli ambalam at Madurai Meenakshi Amman
Temple (rajatha / velli – silver) and the Thaamira sabhai at Nellaiappar
Temple, Tirunelveli (thaamiram – copper).
May Lord Shiva shower
his blessings on you and your family,
May happiness and peace surround you with
his eternal love and strength.
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