Hyderabad, famously known as the city
of pearls, biryani, rich history, and ancient monuments, has transformed
dramatically over the past two decades. Once steeped in tradition, the city now
expands in all directions, fuelled by the continuous arrival of software
companies, MNCs, pharmaceutical firms, and countless business establishments.
Wide roads, towering skyscrapers, a metro system, shopping malls, and
multiplexes have reshaped it into a modern metropolis. However, this rapid
progress has brought its own challenges: pollution, traffic congestion, and an
overwhelming surge in commercial competition.
Among the many booming industries,
the restaurant business has seen an unprecedented rise. Entrepreneurs, both
seasoned and inexperienced, are opening eateries almost daily, particularly in
the city's newer developments. From street food stalls and mid-range diners to
grand restaurants and fine-dining establishments, the culinary scene is
expanding at an astonishing pace.
Regardless of cuisine, every
restaurant claims authenticity, superior taste, and impeccable service.
Enthralled by Hyderabad’s rich culinary heritage, diners eagerly order the
iconic Hyderabadi Biryani, Haleem, or other signature dishes. Yet, each restaurant
serves a vastly different version, some subtly varied, others starkly
unrecognizable. This begs the question: What is the true Hyderabadi Biryani?
Why don’t chefs adhere to traditional recipes, ingredients, and cooking
methods? In my home, we have always prepared it the authentic way, as it is
served at most Muslim weddings. Even my two sons have mastered the art of
cooking Mutton Biryani in this time-honoured manner.
The same inconsistency plagues other
cuisines, be it South Indian, Chinese, or Mughlai. What is served may be
enjoyable, but it is rarely authentic. An expert cook would instantly recognize
overcooked, undercooked, overly spiced, bland, or wrongly prepared dishes.
While such critiques may not be voiced at the table, they certainly echo
outside the restaurant.
Hygiene and food quality are another
pressing concern. Hyderabad’s restaurant industry has recently suffered a
tarnished reputation after food inspectors uncovered alarming violations:
adulterated ingredients, rotten vegetables and meat, rodent infestations, and
unclean kitchen staff, even in highly rated establishments. Amid an avian flu
outbreak in Telangana, one can’t help but wonder where restaurants are sourcing
their chicken.
Service quality varies widely. The
senior waiters who take orders are generally well-trained, polite, and
knowledgeable about the menu. However, junior waitstaff often lack proper
training and professionalism, sometimes diminishing the dining experience.
With restaurants mushrooming in close
proximity, competition is fierce, and business is not always thriving. Many
eateries resort to offering nearly 50% discounts on app-based bookings to lure
customers.
To illustrate the state of
Hyderabad’s dining scene, I present a case study featuring three international
food connoisseurs: Ms. Akira from Japan, Ms. Chae-won from South Korea, and Ms.
Lalitha from India. These ladies visited several fine-dining establishments to
evaluate Japanese, Korean, and local cuisines. Their verdict? A mixed bag of
disappointment and understanding.
At a restaurant claiming to serve
“authentic” Japanese cuisine, Ms. Akira ordered Sushi and Ramen. While the
presentation was impressive, the Sushi lacked the finesse and fresh flavours of
true Japanese Sushi. The Ramen broth, though flavourful, missed the deep Umami
richness that defines authentic Japanese preparations. The effort was evident,
but the execution fell short.
At a Korean BBQ restaurant, Ms. Chae-won
tried Bulgogi and Kimchi Jjigae. Though enjoyable, she noticed that the
seasoning and spice levels were adapted for the Indian palate, diluting the
authenticity. The Kimchi, too, was milder than traditional Korean standards.
The restaurant catered well to local tastes but failed to deliver a truly
Korean experience.
Ms. Lalitha found that Indian cuisine
had a home advantage, yet even here, inconsistency prevailed. Something as
simple as Butter Naan or Aloo Paratha varied significantly between restaurants,
leaving diners uncertain about what version they would be served.
In conclusion, the ladies noted that
while the food at these restaurants was generally good, none of the
establishments fully captured the essence of their claimed cuisines. Many adapt
recipes to suit local preferences, a sensible business strategy, but when a
restaurant boldly advertises “authenticity”, expectations rise, and few live up
to them.
Key takeaways from their observations
are:
Ingredients matter. Many restaurants
use cheaper substitutes, which alter the intended taste. Traditional cooking
techniques require mastery. Shortcuts compromise authenticity.
They opined that Ambiance and
presentation are commendable. Most restaurants had appealing décor, decent
crockery and cutlery. They said service etiquette needs refinement.
Hospitality was warm, but
professional finesse was sometimes lacking. Interestingly, their warm reception
at every restaurant may have been influenced by their distinctive international
presence and dressed in identical Indian attire, the three women, despite their
diverse origins, bore a striking resemblance to sisters. Here is one picture of
them in Red Sarees:
I hope Hyderabad’s restaurant industry takes these observations seriously. Beyond taste and authenticity, hygiene and quality standards must be prioritized. With an overcrowded market and intense competition, the restaurant business in Hyderabad is nothing short of a battlefield. I wish them luck.
